Make-up Technical File Sign Off

Applying Pre-Made Gelatine Moulds

Products Used:

• Pre-made gelatine piece
• Prosaide (glue to stick gelatine and silicone moulds to face and body)
• Pro-clean remover
• Witch Hazel
• Cotton Buds
• Translucent powder
• Supracolour

Health & Safety

• Conduct allergy test on model's forearm and check no rash or itchiness appears
• Check with model for any current skin complaints 
• Make sure all sponges/brushes are clean
• Make sure model's eyes are closed at all times whilst using products on the face
• Cover model
• Wash hands

Consultation Notes

• Name: Eleanor Nevill
• Age: 19
• Hair type: Long, dark curly hair
• Skin type: Normal
• Skin tone: Light with pink undertones
• Allergies: N/A

Process:

Inspiration for the colouring of my
given gelatine piece

1. Cut the pre-made piece down to remove hard edges and excess gelatine
2. Apply glue onto piece all over the back
3. Apply glue to section of skin that is being used
4. Allow glue to go clear
5. Place piece onto skin and press strongly onto skin
6. Blend edges with witch hazel and a cotton bud (take time with this to create a seamless edge)
7. If there is any excess glue on the skin, remove with pro-clean
8. Powder gelatine piece to remove tackiness
9. Colour accordingly
10. Remove with pro-clean

Reflection

I feel like this technical was the hardest to make look effective. I am not very happy with my final result as the edges are pretty awful! I spent about 15/20 minutes rubbing the edges with Witch Hazel but I think the piece was very thick which made it harder to make the edges invisible. I also was not completely sure what my piece was meant to be so I decided to colour it like a collection of blisters. I am pleased with the transparency and colouring of the actual blisters but I think the redness surrounding the area should be slightly lighter. Overall, I know I need to practise this to get to grips with blending the edges and I would like to fill my own mould with gelatine (or silicon) to be able to control the thickness of the piece.

Model's Consultation Notes

Dirtied Skin & Teeth

Products Used:

• Fuller's Earth
• Kryolan Colour Hairspray
• Supracolour Palette
• Tooth Enamel
• Moisturiser
• Surgical Spirit
• Cotton Buds

Health & Safety

• Conduct allergy test on model's forearm and check no rash or itchiness appears
• Check with model for any current skin complaints 
• Make sure all sponges/brushes are clean
• Make sure model's eyes are closed at all times whilst using products on the face
• Cover model
• Wash hands
• Check if teeth have been recently whitened
• Do not use brush in enamel bottle

Consultation Notes

• Name: Bronya Leavesley
• Age: 20
• Hair type: Short blonde hair - dyed
• Skin type: Normal to Combination
• Skin tone: Light with pink undertones
• Allergies: N/A

Process (Skin)

• Moisturise skin
• Use supracolour under nails and in knuckles (create brown/earth/dark tones to re-create dirt)
• Mix fuller's earth with water and apply with fingers onto skin
• Dry with warm hairdryer
• Use colour hairsprays to create splatters and build up colour

Self Reflection

In this technical lesson I did not feel like it was very successful. I wasn't exactly sure what the process was meant to achieve (if was meant to be like dry mud or just dirty skin) but I found the product Fuller's Earth a difficult product to work with. The reason being the cracking and if you build up layers, once it cracks just white is left underneath distracting from the colours you've built up. Also I found it hard getting to grips with using sprays to build up colour. It was hard to not just spray a circle onto the surface. I feel like next time I would apply a lighter layer of both the Fuller's Earth and the colours. I liked the finish of the dirtied nails however.

Bronya's attempt on my hand - step by step

Process (Teeth)

• Shake up the bottle of enamel
• Dry the tooth/teeth you're going to use
• Use a cotton bud to grab tooth enamel and paint tooth
• Use small amounts of surgical spirit if enamel is applied in places it shouldn't be

Reflection

Beth applied the products in this application. I think the products are useful in giving a character further depth and accuracy with story lines, however, with our first try we did not think the black was very effective. I think when I next use the enamel, I will use the yellowy colour more with tiny amount of black to make it look more decayed in a more subtle way (instead of just blocking out the tooth). However, the teeth that are yellow with black on the bottom work well indicating chipped or decayed teeth.

Fever, Sweat, Black Eyes & Chapped Lips

Sue's demo on me!

Products Used:

• Supracolour palette
• SFX blood
• Moisturiser
• Palette knife
• Glycerin
• Liquid Latex
• Ben Nye Bruise Wheel
• Stipple Sponges
• Alcohol

Health & Safety

• Conduct allergy test on model's forearm and check no rash or itchiness appears
• Check with model for any current skin complaints 
• Make sure all sponges/brushes are clean
• Make sure model's eyes are closed at all times whilst using latex or acetone on the face
• Test heat of melted gelatine on own arm before applying
• Keep Glycerin away from eyes
• Cover model
• Wash hands

Consultation Notes

• Name: Charlotte Roth
• Age: 18
• Hair type: Long dark hair
• Skin type: Combination
• Skin tone: Light to medium with yellow undertones
• Allergies: N/A

Process:

(For fever)

• Mix red shades from supra colour palette with moisturiser to thin out mixture
• Layer varied shades lightly on the skin to build up a rash-like appearance
• Optionally you can mix the colours with alcohol to flick onto the skin with a large artists brush (keep clients eyes shut at all times)

(Sweat)

• Apply Glycerin onto a stipple sponge
• Stipple product onto areas where sweat needs to be applied 
• Spray water into hairline to add to the affect

(Chapped Lips)

• Ask client to pucker their lips
• Apply a layer of latex onto lips whilst puckered
• Allow to dry, apply more if needed
• Use fingers or a small pin carefully to peel bits away to create a further chapped look once the lips are relaxed

(Black Eye)

• Use supra colour palette or a bruise wheel and apply darkest shade first
• Use a real life image as reference
• Apply colours mainly around socket
• Apply vaseline over finished application to add subtle shine

Self Reflection

I thoroughly enjoyed this lesson as I was able to apply and learn a lot of techniques this lesson. I had constant feed back from Sue which allowed me to really get stuck in and make it a good attempt. These techniques are not ones I would necessarily use for this project, apart from the chapped lips, but are valuable techniques  to have in the world of SFX - the area I want to specialise in. I feel my application of the feverish skin could've been slightly for translucent and subtle but I enjoyed the process of building up the colour slowly. I feel like the chapped lips were most successful as they ended up looking very realistic and this encouraged me to use this aspect within my character design as she is dehydrated and does not take care of herself physically. I attempted to apply small sections of latex on parts of her face to create dry skin but it was not very affective with red applied over the top but I would like to try create dry skin for my character at some point in the design process.

SFX Burns

A burn is a type of injury to the skin that is caused by heat, electricity, chemicals, friction or radiation.

Types of burns

2nd degree burn (image used
to inspire my attempt)

• 1st degree - affects only one and outermost layer of the skin 
• 2nd degree - injury extends to more than one layer 
• 3rd degree - all layer of skins are affects

Products Used:

• Meltable gelatine nuggests
• Supracolour palette
• SFX blood
• SFX pus
• Witch hazel
• Moisturiser
• Palette knife
• Microwave

Health & Safety

• Conduct allergy test on model's forearm and check no rash or itchiness appears
• Check with model for any current skin complaints 
• Make sure all sponges/brushes are clean
• Make sure model's eyes are closed at all times whilst using latex or acetone on the face
• Test heat of melted gelatine on own arm before applying
• Cover model
• Wash hands

Consultation Notes

• Name: Beth Haile
• Age: 19
• Hair type: Short, blonde hair - dyed
• Skin type: Combination
• Skin tone: Light with pink undertones
• Allergies: N/A

Process:

Before and after powdering

• Melt the required amount of gelatine in microwave for around 20-30 seconds (but must keep checking)
• Once gelatine is melted and cooled to the correct temperature for application, apply with palette knife on desired area.
• Make sure edges are smooth and pull up parts of gelatine where you want to create texture or holes for the wound.
• Use witch hazel to smooth harsh edges into skin.
• Use hairdryer on a cool setting to make sure the gelatine has set (it will go tacky)
• Powder to remove tackiness to make it easier to work with
• Apply colouring and textures (blood, pus etc)

Self Reflection

This lesson was really exciting and engaging for me as I have been waiting to get stuck in with injuries and gore! Working with gelatine was really easy and effective and I really want to invest in some of my own to practise with. I am frustrated that the edges at the bottom of the burn are harsh and visible but I have learnt now that I must check that all edges are very smooth before cooling. 

I had originally painted my piece much heavier with lots of red and dark shades, however, Sue advised me it was too obvious that it was makeup and used moisturiser on a pad to remove the top layer and exposed more of the translucency of the gelatine to look more realistic with a blistering effect. I am pretty happy with the overall application of the colours but I do think it is slight too bright and orange and I would now add more dark red shades around the blistered sections to create more depth. Sue also advised me to add some aged blood into the pus to make it look more realistic. The tips and improvements mean I will be able to create a very realistic piece next attempt. This practise session has interested me into creating a design for Miss Havisham based at the end of the book following her fire accident, burns could be placed on the face and neck but it would be hard to maintain for continuity purposes.

Cuts, Scratches and Scars

Products Used:

• Liquid latex
• Kensington gore blood - aged blood 
• Cinewax 
• Sealer
• Stipple sponges
• Wound filler
• Supracolour palette
• Kryolan foundation palette
• Collodion
• Tuplast
• Moisturiser
• Palette knife

Health & Safety

• Conduct allergy test on model's forearm and check no rash or itchiness appears
• Check with model for any current skin complaints 
• Make sure all sponges/brushes are clean
• Make sure model's eyes are closed at all times whilst using latex or acetone on the face
• Cover model
• Wash hands

Consultation Notes

• Name: Charlotte Roth
• Age: 18
• Hair type: Long, dark hair
• Skin type: Combination
• Skin tone: Light to medium with yellow undertones
• Allergies: N/A
• Contraindications: N/A

Process:

(Cuts + Scratches)

• Work wax on back of hand to warm up for usage
• Apply to face and edges need to be blended into skin
• Use moisturiser on palette knife to make sure wax doesn't stick or pick up wax off the skin
• Make an incision for cut
• Use latex or sealer over the top with a bud
• Use hairdryer to dry until clear/not sticky (cool setting)
• Stipple colours over the top to create an accurate skin tone
• Use moisturiser or brush cleaner (alcohol) to think down colours to be slightly translucent
• Use a hair pin to fill in wound with filler and blood

After applying colours and blood.
I wanted to create a look that Charlie had fallen and cut and grazed her chin!I feel the paint job for my first attempt looks good. However, I am not completely happy with the edges of the cut. 

For Scars:

• Use barrier cream on area of skin
• Paint collodion on skin
• Use pin and squeeze skin over until dry
• If using Tuplast - squeeze out of tube onto skin and smooth
• Colour according to age of scar

Tuplast can also be used to create raised veins which I tried quickly in class and coloured with a light blue from the supra colour palette.

Self Reflection
I was very excited to try out some gore as this is the area that first interested me in the world of makeup! It was difficult at first to work with the wax and get it to stick to the face (and not the palette knife!). Once I managed to apply it, I smoothed the surface out but found it hard to create a completely seamless edge. I think I went wrong but making the layer of wax too thick for the area where I was making the cut because that then made it harder to smooth out a thick edge. Next time, I will build up the surface in smaller amounts rather than just applying a load of wax and trying to get rid of the edges.

However, I am pleased with the final look of the injury. I wanted to make Charlie look like she had had a tumbled a cut and scratched her face. The base colour looks affective and I matched the foundation to her skin to make it look realistic. If I were to re-create this again, I would add more scratch affects around the cut with a paintbrush and blood or wound filler.

Unfortunately, we did not have time to re-create a scar with collidion but Sue's demo gave us an insight on the various looks we can achieve and how to add colouring in the best way.

Charlotte's cut on my arm!

SFX Aging

Products Used:

• Liquid Latex
• Acetone
• Barrier Cream
• Stipple Sponge
• Cotton Buds

Health & Safety

• Conduct allergy test on model's forearm and check no rash or itchiness appears
• Check with model for any current skin complaints 
• Make sure all sponges/brushes are clean
• Make sure model's eyes are closed at all times whilst using latex or acetone on the face
• Cover model
• Wash hands

Consultation Notes

• Name: Bronya Leavesley
• Age: 20
• Hair type: Medium length, blonde hair - dyed
• Skin type: Combination
• Skin tone: Light with pink undertones

Process:

(For hands)

• Use barrier cream all over area that is being worked on
• Stretch skin on top of hand
• Stipple latex all over
• Hair dry on cool setting unless product goes translucent
• Powder over top

Before and After Powdering

(For forehead and eyes)

1 layer of latex on forehead

• Cleanse, tone and use barrier cream (instead of moisturiser) to clean face
• Get the model to smile or wrinkle their forehead and crinkle their eyes to work out where the lines are and where they would age
• Stretch the skin around area and stipple latex
• Use hair dryer to dry until product goes clear
• If edge is harsh, use acetone on a bud and wipe excess off before using
• Powder
• Layer up if needed

1st Layer of Latex (quite subtle)

2nd layer (wrinkle deeper but bubbling occured
following too much product being applied
at once)

Self Reflection
Following our first SFX/prostechics lessons, I found it difficult to get to grips with new products. I have played around with moulding wax and latex before but I have never been taught how to professionally use it so I was nervous but very excited to get started in the area I am most interested in. Bronya went first with practising on me and it gave me a good idea of how all the products feel on my skin. As Sue tried to correct a small error of Bronya's, a fair amount of acetone was used on my face and I had a small reaction that caused a red rash on that area and that taught me to be extra careful on my models! 

I was nervous to be working around my model's eyes, however, once I started using the sponge (another new tool!) I learnt how much product to load onto the face and how to apply. Bronya has very youthful and tight skin so I found it difficult to create deep and noticable wrinkles on her young skin! But I was very pleased with the first layer of latex on both the forehead and eye area and the edges were pretty seamless. Applying a second layer slightly ruined my era application as I applied to much product without blending/spreading it more so it left a bubble which covered the texture I had created. I have learnt now to make sure the layer is spread evenly with no edges and no bubbles! 

I am particularly happy with the effect on Bronya's hands. I feel that picked up most on the creases on her knuckles and really aged her skin once I powdered as it made the skin look dry and cracked. The edges on the fingers looked a bit flaky but unintentionally adds to an aged, drying skin! If I were re-creating this, I would go onto add more colouring to hand to age it further. Next time I would like to practise on more areas to experience the various results I could get but I am pleased with my first attempt and excited to try some more!