Biblography

Websites

• Anne T Donahue. (2014) Woman in Horror: The Revenge. [29^th March] Available: http://www.theguardian.com/tv-and-radio/commentisfree/2014/oct/17/women-in-horror-the-revenge
• Brown University. (2008) Defining Characters By Their Chosen Environment. [14th February] Available from: http://www.victorianweb.org/authors/dickens/ge/lii6.html
• Dan Dinello. (2011) The Contagious Age: Overwhelmed by Vampires, Viruses, and Zombies in the 21st Century. [11^th March] Available: http://www.popmatters.com/feature/148166-the-contagious-age-overwhelmed-by-vampires-viruses-and-zombies/
• David F. Salisbury. (2001) Brief History of Cannibal Controversies. [24^th March] Available: http://exploration.vanderbilt.edu/news/news_cannibalism_pt2.htm
• Dazed. (2014) Vivienne Westwood Red Label SS14. [14^th March] Available: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/17176/1/vivienne-westwood-red-label-ss14
• Delamar. (2009) Continuity for The Makeup Artist. [20th February] Available: http://www.delamaracademy.co.uk/blog/2009/06/an-introduction-to-continuity-for-the-make-up-artist
• Encyclopaedia Britannica. (2016) Nuclear Winter. [28^th March] Available: http://www.britannica.com/topic/nuclear-winter.
• Gustavo Briand. (2007) ‘The Hair at the Nineteenth Century’ [8^th February] Available from: http://thehistoryofthehairsworld.com/hair_19th_century.html
• Grace Murano. (2014) 10 Most Chilling Stories of Modern Day Cannibalism. [24^th March] Available: http://www.oddee.com/item_98622.aspx
• Jessica Valenti. (2014) Why do women love The Walking Dead? [30^th March] Available: http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2014/jun/12/women-love-walking-dead-rape-scenes
• John Blaser. (1999) No Place for a Woman: The Femme Fatale. [6^th April] Available: http://www.lib.berkeley.edu/MRC/noir/np05ff.html
• Kathleen Harris. (2015) ‘Victorian Hairstyles, A Short History’ [8^th February] Available from: http://www.whizzpast.com/victorian-hairstyles-a-short-history-in-photos/
• Lisa Fritscher. (2013) The Lasting Effects of Horror Movies on Children and Teens. [28^th March] Available: http://www.livestrong.com/article/1004470-lasting-effects-horror-movies-children-teens/
• M. Hoppe. (1997) The Victorian Wedding. [16^th Februrary] Available: http://www.literary-liaisons.com/article003.html
• Maggie Freleng. (2014) Pretty Bloody: Women and Stereotypes in Horror Movies. [29^th March] Available: http://vitaminw.co/culture-society/horror-movies-women-and-stereotypes
• Marco Lanzagorta. (2008) A Closet Full of Monsters. [11^th March] Available: http://www.popmatters.com/column/horrors-in-the-closet/
• NHS. (2015) Malnutrition. [27^th March] Available: http://www.nhs.uk/conditions/Malnutrition/Pages/Introduction.aspx
• Rachel Lee Harris. (2016) Behind the Makeup and Costumes of ‘Mad Max: Fury Road’. [27^th March] Available: http://www.nytimes.com/2016/02/11/movies/mad-max-fury-road-and-the-furiosa-factor.html?_r=0
• The Royal Household. (2008/09) 'Victoria (r.1837-1901)' [2^nd January] Available from: http://www.royal.gov.uk/historyofthemonarchy/kingsandqueensoftheunitedkingdom/thehanoverians/victoria.aspx
• Savage Cinema. (2005) Cannibal Holocaust. [24^th March] Available: http://www.savagecinema.com/cannibalholocaust.html
• Science Museum. (2016) War's Long Term Effects. [28^th March] Available: http://www.sciencemuseum.org.uk/broughttolife/themes/war/effects
• Wikipedia. (2016) Film Noir. [6^th April] Available: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Film_noir#Overview
• Woodbridge Productions. (2005) Looking Great in High Definition. [20^th February] Available: http://www.woodbridgeproductions.co.uk/hd5.htm 

Books

• Alain Silver & James Ursini. 2004. Film Noir. Italy: TASCHEN.
• Carol J Clover. 1993. Men, Women and Chainsaws : Gender in the Modern Horror Film. Princeton: Princeton UP.
• Fenja Gunn. 1973. The Artifical Face. United Kingdom: David & Charles (Holdings) Ltd.
• Georgine De Courtais. 2006. Women’s Headdress and Hairstyles. USA: Dover Publications INC.
• Hilary Rander. 2011. Feminism at the Movies : Understanding Gender in Contemporary Popular Cinema. London: Routledge.
• Lisa Eldridge. 2015. Face Paint – The Story of Makeup. USA: Abrams Image.
• Rhona J. Berenstein 1996. Attack of the Leading Ladies: Gender, Sexuality and Spectatorship in Classic Horror Cinema. New York: Columbia University Press.
• Susan Lusdan. 1981. Victorians At Home. London: George Weidenfeld and Nicolson Limited.

Film and Television

• The Art of Gothic: Britain’s Midnight Hour, 2014 [TV] BBC 4. 6^th Nov
• Gilda, 1946 [Film] Directed by Charles Vidor
• Great Expectations, 2012 [Film] Directed by Mike Newell
• Great Expectations, 2011 [TV] BBC 1. 29^th Dec
• Great Expectations, 1946 [Film] Directed by David Lean
• Sherlock, 2015 [TV] BBC 1. 1^st January
• The Walking Dead, 2016 [TV] FOX. 4^th April

Youtube

• The British Library. 2014. The Gothic. [2^nd February] Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNohDegnaOQ
• Watch Mojo. 2015. Top 10 Femme Fatales in Modern Movies [7^th April] Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUpIbZuWl6Q
• William Burn. 2014. Gothic Settings [2^nd February] Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CpQ59KEYK8
• Variety. 2015. Variety Artisans: Zombie Bites! Greg Nicotero and 'The Walking Dead' [7^th April] Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1J2RdOaTi_4&nohtml5=False

Behind The Scenes Collaboration

My flatmate Jesse Hargrave is a 1st year film student who is creating a documentary for one of her university projects. She was very interested in my ideas when I was explaining the gothic horror project and the photoshoots and we decided to combine forces and create a behind-the-scenes video! We have arranged for Jesse and her course friend Faye to film me creating the makeup looks on both characters, film myself and Bronya (my assistant) set up the photography studio or following us on location and film the photoshoot itself. This will be a great video to add to my portfolio and will be a great demonstration of how I create the looks. 

Final Video - Behind The Beauty

                           

Scenes I Imagine My Characters In

Mrs Rose Laderman

                         

The scene I planned Mrs Laderman to be in is following her on the run. Much like this teaser for the Walking Dead, I want her to be in a run down area looking panicked and tired from running. I will look around my local area in Southampton to explore run down or grungdy areas to reflect an environment like the sets and locations in Walking Dead, linking it well with the apocalyptic series. 

Claudia

                         

As Claudia is getting murdered by a zombie in my story, I want to photograph her in a dark studio with just spotlight to highlight her face and shoulders to highlight her makeup and bite. She will be revealing the bit in the photo looking horrified and upset. Unlike the video, she would be completely alone. 

Models and Consultation Notes

Claudia - Tara Page

Age: 19
Hair type: Thick, medium length. Dark blonde with highlights - dyed
Skin type: Combination to Oily
Skin tone: Light with pink undertones
Eye colour: Blue
Notes: Concerned with breakouts, use sensitive products

Mrs Laderman - Phoebe Slee

Age: 19

Hair type: Thick, medium length. Medium blonde

Skin type: Normal

Skin tone: Light

Eye colour: Blue (one eye half brown)

Notes: Fakes tans often to a medium tone with yellow undertones - will ask to do so to fit in with character notes of being outside

Walking Dead Styling

All the current characters wardrobes are muted in colour, practical and easy to move in (standard and plain clothes you'd find anywhere). Interestingly, the colour palette used by the Walking Dead's costume department chose colours very reminiscent of the army, as they are fighting to survive. For my character shoots, I will keep my models in simple outfits - layers of vest tops and dark jeans or trousers. The clothes will be dull and dirty and that's something I can add to the clothes when I purchase the outfits for my models. Having this kind of outfit will keep my characters tied into the story even better.

Claudia

• Black top and black jeans - to reflect the sultry classic black dresses Femme Fatate's would've worn
• Earrings to keep her feeling glamorous (nothing big or gaudy for the apocalypse but something to connect her to life before the end of the world to symbolise her veiled perception of life)
• No other accessories apart from an old looking hair tie on her wrist - to show how she tries to keep up appearances with her hair and will use it to keep her hair out of her face when she devours her victims

Mrs Rose Laderman

• Khaki and dirty cream layered tops with dark jeans - to fit in with current characters
• Chunky belt to look like a tool belt
• Potentially have a dirty knife as a prop or in belt (but as shooting on location I'm not sure if this is a good idea!)

Claudia's Makeup in a Zombie Apocalypse

As part of Claudia's character profile, whilst growing up she became obsessed with horror movies and bases her style of women in horror she is infatuated with at the time. I want to base her look around the classic 'Film Noir' look, a Femme Fatale. After research Rita Hayworth in Guilda, I wanted to base her look loosely around her dark eyes and sultry eyes and bold lips. My favourite aspect of the look is how her false lashes form a dark shadow on her eyelids, adding to the sensual look. However, of course, in a zombie apocalypse makeup products no longer exist. In the role of the makeup designer, I need to visualise and design a look that would be achievable and realistic in the apocalyptic world with the resources Claudia could get hold of.

Claudia's Ideal Look

In a non-apocalyptic world.

Dark, glossy and smoked eyes with a bold red lip

This look cannot be achieved in this world and would not be appropriate for me to design for The Walking Dead. However, I still want Claudia to have some essence of this look to give her a signal to the audience of who she is - like other villains may have a scar or an eye-patch. Interestingly, after watching Mad Max recently I research how the makeup looks were achieved. Specifically, Furiosa from the movie has an oil-like war paint across the top part of her face. Mad Max is also an apocalyptic story. Makeup designer Lesley Vanderwalt explained to the New York times how they went about designing a suitable style. 

“We had to find a way to tie that makeup into the story. We thought, these people had nothing but the materials around them, which would have been grease from the mechanical stuff they were building or clay from the ground.” So she used black makeup mixed with some pigment highlights. When Furiosa grabs a wad off her rig’s steering wheel to reapply it, “it was like she was putting on her war paint.”

(Harris, 2016)

The idea of using resources such as grease and clay inspired me to re-create this. At the end of the world, the use of cars is scarce and they would be scattered all around the place so grease would be easily found. In my story, after requesting her 'slave' Mrs Laderman to collect it whilst getting her human victims, Claudia will keep a stash of grease after discovering its effect in her flat to uphold her look. For the lips, as she is devouring human flesh I will make her lips look blood stained - a similar blood red to the woman she idolises would wear. Making each of these aspects realistic will make my character more believable and will allow her to fit into the world of the Walking Dead better with a twist on her look to keep her original.

Following Lesley's techniques, I will
try out a combination of products
to achieve the same affect as
grease (as obviously this can't be
used on my model's eyes!).

Again, for this aspect of the look I will create my own fake blood to make sure it is edible as it will be on the lips! It will also be interesting to have it in or coming out of the mouth.

References:

• Rachel Lee Harris. (2016). Behind the Makeup and Costumes of ‘Mad Max: Fury Road’. [27^th March] Available: http://www.nytimes.com/2016/02/11/movies/mad-max-fury-road-and-the-furiosa-factor.html?_r=0